Iceland travel guide

Reykjavík

Take some time out to explore Reykjavík’s thriving buzz. From art to music and spectacular attractions, there’s plenty to do and see in the Icelandic capital. My December trip was all city, from FlyOver Iceland to a Christmas food walk.

You won’t be able to miss the towering Hallgrímskirkja church, whose tower has 360-degree views over the whole city.

There’s plenty of culture on offer, including museums, galleries and the famous Harpa Concert and Conference Hall, an architectural masterpiece in itself. Not to mention a penis museum. Yep, you read that right.

The Golden Circle

A trip around the Golden Circle is a must-do when in Iceland. Make the breathtaking Gullfoss a priority: it’s one of Iceland’s most famous attractions, and for good reason. I saw it grey and wintry in early May and under rainbows in September.

Other stops on the circuit include Þingvellir National Park, where the North American and Eurasian plates are pulling apart, and the geothermal field at Geysir, where Strokkur erupts every five to 10 minutes.

Walk behind Seljalandsfoss

About 125 km east of Reykjavík, the path at Seljalandsfoss loops right behind the water; I’ve walked it in May and September. Next door, Gljúfrabúi hides in a gorge, reached on stepping stones along a stream, which is how I got wet feet.

Reynisfjara black sand beach

Near Vík, Reynisfjara has basalt columns, a sea cave and the Reynisdrangar sea stacks offshore; I flew my drone over them in September. Never turn your back on the sea: sneaker waves have swept people away.

Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon and Diamond Beach

Words like spectacular and mesmerising get thrown around a lot when it comes to Iceland, but they’re an understatement at Jökulsárlón and the nearby Diamond Beach. Picture colossal icebergs drifting lazily across a lagoon at the foot of a glacier, then washing ashore to glisten on the black sand. I walked the shore in September to the sound of cracking ice, and reached Diamond Beach late in the day.

Squeeze through the slot canyons of Þórsmörk

Þórsmörk sits between three glaciers, beyond river crossings no hire car is insured for. I went by super jeep in May, squeezing through gaps in the rock and following a stream into a slot canyon.

Akureyri

This humble fishing port, with a population of about 20,000, is a surprising Icelandic gem that’s definitely worth visiting. It’s a great spot to hang out in independent cafés or tea houses, or to browse the boutiques and craft shops.

Grundarfjörður

Grundarfjörður may not be the most talked-about town on the Snæfellsnes peninsula, but it’s full of nature-led activities. It’s home to one of the most famous mountains in Iceland, Kirkjufell, a real sight to behold (admire it from below: the landowners have banned climbing it).

This is the ideal place to slip on some hiking boots and get exploring. You’ll see stunning waterfalls, walk nature trails and catch glimpses of the local wildlife. You can also take boat trips in the summer months and go deep-sea fishing.

The Blue Lagoon

This geothermal spa is one of Iceland’s biggest attractions. With a picturesque backdrop and gorgeously warm water to swim in, it’s no wonder. Not only is the water great for relaxing in, but locals swear by the fact that it nourishes the skin.

That said, one local driver I met joked that everyone came out of the Blue Lagoon looking like a troll. Who knows? There’s only one way to find out, and that’s giving it a go yourself.

The nearby Sundhnúkur craters have erupted nine times since December 2023, most recently in July and August 2025, so the lagoon can close at short notice: check SafeTravel and book a flexible ticket. I’ve never been myself, choosing the pool in Hella and Sky Lagoon instead.

Skaftafell ice caves

Sitting pretty (literally) inside Vatnajökull National Park, the Skaftafell ice caves are a global attraction for brave adventurers. Vatnajökull is the largest ice cap in Iceland and one of the largest in Europe. The natural caves form only in winter, so join a guided ice cave tour between November and March, or walk on the ice the rest of the year on a Falljökull glacier hike.

Nearby, the Svartifoss hike leads to my favourite waterfall in Iceland.

The Northern Lights

C’mon, how could you travel to Iceland and not take every conceivable chance to see the Northern Lights? As one of the most awe-inspiring things I’ve witnessed, over two amazing nights at Hotel Rangá in September, there’s no denying that it’s one of the best things to do.

Sure, there’s no guarantee that you’ll see the lights, but if you time your visit right, you’re in with a good chance. Head out to Þingvellir National Park or Kirkjufell, as they offer the ideal dark skies away from city lights.

Mælifell volcano

What would a guide to Iceland be without mentioning the endless opportunities to go volcano hunting? Luckily, you won’t need to hunt far for Mælifell, a near-perfect cone on the northern edge of Mýrdalsjökull in the Katla UNESCO Global Geopark, which turns bright green with moss in summer: a quintessential volcano for your Instagram reel. It’s reachable only by 4×4 on highland F-roads, so most people visit on a super jeep tour.

Iceland for first-time visitors

10 days

Reykjavík > Blue Lagoon > Kirkjufell and the Snæfellsnes peninsula > Golden Circle > Landmannalaugar > south coast > glacier walk > Jökulsárlón > Reykjavík

A classic Iceland itinerary that will make your first time in the country your best time.

The Ring Road itinerary

14 days

Spend 14 days road-tripping around the circumference of Iceland on the Ring Road; Kay Rodriguez’s guide drives the loop in 10.

Blue Lagoon > Glymur waterfall > north Iceland > Goðafoss > Mývatn, Dettifoss and Selfoss > east Iceland > Jökulsárlón > south coast > Reykjavík

Off the beaten path Iceland

10 days

Reykjavík > Snæfellsnes peninsula > Westfjords > north Iceland > Kerlingarfjöll > Westman Islands

Explore the often overlooked side of Iceland as you venture off the beaten path.

An adventurous trip to Iceland

10 days

Reykjavík > Glymur waterfall > Landmannalaugar day trip > Silfra > Kerlingarfjöll > Fimmvörðuháls > glacier walk > south coast sights

Discover the adventure-centric side of Iceland on this active itinerary. Landmannalaugar, Kerlingarfjöll and the Fimmvörðuháls trail are summer trips, roughly July to early September.

Short on time? My 3 days in Iceland and 7 day Iceland itinerary stick to the Golden Circle and the south coast, and my guide to how many days you need in Iceland helps you choose a length.

Gluggafoss

While other waterfalls in Iceland take all the glory, there are a few hidden gems that you can have all to yourself. One of these is Gluggafoss in Fljótshlíð, where the river drops through a series of “windows” (gluggar) worn into the rock. It’s one of the most unusual waterfalls I’ve come across in Iceland.

Hekla

If you haven’t heard about the “gateway to hell”, welcome to Hekla. One of the most active volcanoes in Iceland, it’s a great spot for hiking, or just get right down on the ground and relax on a thick bed of layered moss, as I did on my May trip. I only saw the volcano itself from afar.

Landeyjafjara

A black sand beach few visitors find, reached by super jeep over dunes and through streams. I went in May and spotted a couple of seals.

Icelandic Elf School

One of the more off-the-beaten-path activities is taking a few lessons about these mythical creatures at the Icelandic Elf School in Reykjavík. Here, you’ll learn all about elves, trolls and hidden people.

Friðheimar tomato farm

In Reykholt in South Iceland, the Friðheimar tomato farm is a must-visit stop on the Golden Circle. Indulge in some of the tomato soup among the vines and treat yourself to a bloody mary made with freshly squeezed tomato juice: I’m still thinking about mine. Book ahead; the restaurant serves lunch from 12:00 to 16:00.

Dishes to try

• Hákarl: fermented shark, cured for months and served in small cubes. I’ve tasted it, and the smell is far worse than the flavour.
• Arctic char: a cousin of salmon, and the first taste on my Christmas food walk in Reykjavík, with yuzu and elderflower.
• Geysir bread: dark, sweet rye bread baked slowly in the hot ground.
• Harðfiskur: wind-dried haddock or cod eaten as a snack, ideally with butter.
• Hangikjöt: Icelandic smoked lamb served with potatoes, peas and red cabbage, especially at Christmas.
• Pylsur: the Icelandic hot dog, made mostly from lamb and served on a warm bun with raw and crispy onions, ketchup, sweet mustard and remoulade.

Drinks to try

• Brennivín: Iceland’s caraway-flavoured schnapps, nicknamed Black Death, and the traditional chaser for hákarl.
• Craft beer: beer was banned in Iceland until 1 March 1989, and the country now has dozens of small breweries. At my tasting at Ölvisholt in May, every beer got a thumbs up from me.

Hnoss, Reykjavík

The restaurant on the ground floor of Harpa, where I had dinner on my December trip. It now runs as a bistro from 11am to 6pm (later on concert nights), with brunch at weekends.

ROK, Reykjavík

Icelandic small plates in a tiny turf-roofed house facing Hallgrímskirkja on Frakkastígur, and where I ate on my first night in the city.

Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur, Reykjavík

The little red hot dog stand on Tryggvagata, near the harbour, has been serving them since 1937. Order one with everything; I stopped by on a December evening.

Smakk Bar, Sky Lagoon

Icelandic tasting plates of cheese, cured meats and smoked fish at the lagoon, where I had dinner after the Sky Ritual.

On my September self-drive, my money went on the hire car and fuel, a room at Hotel Rangá with breakfast, a supermarket lunch and dinner, while the waterfalls, beaches and lagoon cost nothing to see. Per person per day, with two sharing a room and a car, expect roughly:

• Shoestring: ISK 25,000 (about £154 / $207)
• Mid-range: ISK 49,300 (about £304 / $407)
• Splurge: ISK 83,400 (about £515 / $689)
• Tours: a small-group Golden Circle day from about ISK 12,900 (£80); a super jeep day into Þórsmörk from ISK 39,000 (£240)

My guide to whether Iceland is expensive breaks down every cost, from flights to hot dogs.

Safety

When it comes to personal safety, Iceland is one of the safest countries you can visit. While most public spaces are well lit and secure, you might encounter petty crimes such as theft in major hubs like Reykjavík.

Another potential issue comes in the form of sexual harassment, but this is mainly confined to nightclubs in Reykjavík. Nature is the bigger risk, so check SafeTravel for weather, road and volcano warnings. In an emergency, the number to dial is 112.

Health

As you travel to Iceland, you’ll need no specific vaccinations, and the local healthcare system is top-notch. You’ll easily find a pharmacy in almost every town.

The most concerning issues you may face include sunburn (yes, even in Iceland) and hypothermia. Water quality is excellent, so tap water is safe to drink.

Tipping

It’s not customary to tip, and locals won’t expect you to. Service fees get included in bills, and you can tip tour guides or not.

Tips for travelling

• Keep a keen eye on weather alerts and road closures on vedur.is, road.is and safetravel.is, especially outside the summer.
• You’ll drive on the right, but drive carefully: most roads are one lane each way with no hard shoulder, and many bridges are single-lane.
• The local currency is the króna, but cards and contactless work almost everywhere, so you’ll barely need cash.
• Even though the country is cold, its people are not, and they’re always willing to chat or offer help if you need it.
• Almost every town in Iceland has its own festival, so try to catch at least one for an authentic taste of Iceland.
• Read my Iceland travel tips before you go.

How to see the best for free

Stuck wondering how to see Iceland and save a few pounds while you’re at it? Most of the big natural sights are free to visit, and you pay only to park, usually about ISK 750 to 1,100 a car. None of the stops on my September drive to Jökulsárlón, Reynisfjara included, charged for entry, and Gullfoss is still free to park at.

Natural hot springs such as Landbrotalaug, on the Snæfellsnes peninsula, don’t charge an admission fee, and you can watch for the Northern Lights from Grótta lighthouse, on the edge of Reykjavík, for free. Consider adding a few of these to your Iceland itinerary.

Packing

Pack for every kind of weather, whatever the month. In May I lived in a pink Berghaus softshell and a bobble hat, and in September the spray at the foot of Skógafoss had me soaked within minutes, so a properly waterproof layer earns its place. Don’t forget:

• A half-zip mid-layer fleece to keep you warm.
• Heading outdoors? Bring a pair of thermal hiking leggings.
• You’re bound to go walking in Iceland, so pack your hiking boots.
• A roomy travel backpack to carry all your essentials.
• An outer shell for the chilly, windy days of spring and summer.

Read next: Iceland packing list: what to wear month by month, from midnight sun to 4-hour days

Travel insurance

One of my top Iceland travel tips is to cover every aspect of your adventure with appropriate travel insurance. 

I use AXA Travel Insurance as it offers the perfect coverage for medical treatments, loss of personal items, and unforeseen cancellations that could derail a trip. 

Suggested guidebooks

• Lonely Planet Iceland
• The Rough Guide to Iceland 
• Fodor’s Essential Iceland

Interesting facts

• Nearly two thirds of Icelanders live in and around Reykjavík.
• Iceland was one of the last places in Europe to be settled, by Norse farmers from around 874.
• Beer was banned for most of the 20th century and became legal again on 1 March 1989, now celebrated as Beer Day.
• It’s often said that one in 10 Icelanders will publish a book, as reading is a vital tradition in the country.

Handy phrases

• Hello: halló
• Good day: góðan daginn
• Yes: já
• No: nei
• Please: vinsamlegast
• Thank you: takk (or þakka þér fyrir)
• How much is this?: hvað kostar þetta?
• Goodbye: bless
• What’s your name?: hvað heitir þú?

Time zone

With no daylight savings time clock changes, Iceland follows Greenwich Mean Time (UTC +0) year-round.

Electricity and adapters

The electricity supply is 230V and 50Hz, with the standard two-pin European sockets. You’ll need either a type C or F plug or a universal travel adapter.